A mix of Italian, Ladin and Austrian culture come together in Val Gardena to give the ski resorts of Ortisei, St Cristina and Selva their individual characters and charms. Connected by road and slope, you can move between the three villages, access the larger Dolomite ski area and enjoy leisurely evenings of seriously good food and wine.
Val Gardena is a 20km valley stretching itself through the Dolomite mountain range in the South Tyrolean region of Italy.
Austria is a bit to the north and the valley actually belonged to the Austrians before the First World War, leaving a mix of Austrian and Italian influence. To add to the diversity, 90% of the population speak the ancient Rhaeto-Romanic language, Ladin. This is why you’ll probably hear the area referred to by three different names; ‘Gröden’ in German and ‘Gherdëina’ in Ladin as well as the more widely used Italian ‘Val Gardena’.
First and foremost, this is a stunning place to be; the striking Dolomites, or Pale Mountains, provide a rocky platform for climbing and mountain biking activities in the summer and all-things-snow come winter. The jaw dropping Puez-Odle Nature Park is just half the story of the area’s UNESCO world heritage status, with the iconic peaks of the Sassolongo, the Sella Massif and the Marmolada not far off.
Sporadically along 8km of the valley you’ll find Val Gardena’s three mountain villages, each with its own unique character. Entering from the west side, you first reach Ortisei (1236m), also known as St Ulrich. It has a pedestrian friendly centre and via a gondola, you also have access to the highest mountain plateau in Europe at Alpe di Siusi.
Continue up the road from Ortisei and you’ll soon meet up with Santa Cristina (aka Sankt Christina at 1428m); the smallest and quietest of the three villages. If you like to begin the day with a choice of runs, finish it off with a quiet drink and enjoy a bit of local history thrown in along the way, you’ll love it here.
Last, but the opposite of least, is Selva or Wolkenstein (1563m); the most well-known resort and the largest in culture and atmosphere. The closest of the three to an enormous skiing area, it also has a diverse and fun-packed leisure programme.
Whatever is done in Val Gardena is done pretty well. The activities are diverse, the gourmet experience leisurely and the bars a nice mix of lively and chilled. Ask your barman for a local favourite and he’ll probably serve you up with a Bombardino; a mixture of cognac and advocaat with variances and coffee editions.
Santa Cristina promises and delivers a bit of calm. There’s Café Andy and Crazy pub for a spot of leisurely après ski, or you can explore dainty little churches, the Castle Gardena and the old railway. Afterwards, have a Tyrolean dish at L Fudle or La Tambra, followed by an early night in or a night of dancing at Piz 5.
In Selva you’ll easily find the nearest bar, sun terrace or live music scene down your last run of the day. La Stua near the Costabella lift is always fairly animated, as is Hotel Piz Seteur at the bottom of the Sassolungo and Yello’s Music Lounge Bar in town. For pizza and pasta have a taste at La Bula or try out one of the local hotel restaurants for a bit of stylishness. Staying up later? Dali-Disco Dance and the Heustadl in the Hotel Wolkenstein is always a bit of fun.
Ortisei will also have a drink and patch of dancing space waiting, especially at Vinoteque La Cercia and the Siglu Bar. The Museum de Gherdeina and the Parish Church are two good places to soak up some history and culture. For the tastebuds, the Seceda Curona Hutte is a local secret, the Tubladel does a good international dish and Batie Sofie is the ideal setting for a glass of something on the slopes.
The St Cristina Iman centre and the Pranives Sports centre both have ice rinks and there’s a swimming pool over at Ortisei with Turkish baths nearby. Stay outside for a toboggan run, Husky-pulled dog sleigh ride or horse riding at Monte Pana.
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