Andermatt is so textbook Swiss you’d know you were here even if you’d never been to the country before. The Lepontine Alps huddle round the town like friends round a fondue, cow bells chime and dramatic mountain passes fan out in all directions around a timber-framed, chimney topped village. Even the petrol station has history – having appeared in the Bond movie, Goldfinger, as Sean Connery fills up his Aston Martin after a car chase on the nearby Furka pass.
Locals used to say mountains here were riddled with stores of the nation’s gold – and of the skiing gold variety they certainly are. Not 1, but 2 ski areas sit immediately above the village, of which 2963m Gemsstock is 24-carat quality, swathed in off-piste couloirs that could teach other “expert mountains” a thing or two (this is where Switzerland gathers for its "King of the Mountain" freestyle events). Nätschen, by contrast, is a mountain that inspires confidence in intermediates and dreamy eyes in all, reached by a little red train.
To get back to gold, there’s an awful lot of it going into this resort at present. The SkiArena Andermatt-Sedrun project is set to see a shiny new fleet of lifts linking Andermatt with the plateau at Oberalp and the Sedrun ski area in the next few of years, opening up the largest ski area in central Switzerland. In town, luxury hotels and chalets shoot up like wildflowers. But as Andermatt gets flasher and flasher, we’re sure the mountains, the cows and the train will keep it grounded.
Location: Uri, Switzerland
Established: 1883
Open: November - April
Downhill: 120km / 31 runs
View our detailed Andermatt snow forecast or snow report and see all live webcams, piste maps, road and travel maps and lift pass prices. For a picture of historic snow conditions see the snow depths month by month with our Andermatt snow history.
Nearest Airport & Transfer Time: | |
Zürich (ZRH) | 140km, 90 minutes |
|
|
Top Altitude: | 2999m / 9839ft |
Bottom Altitude: | 1437m / 4715ft |
Resort Altitude: | 1437m / 4715ft |
Longest run: | 5km |
Slope Orientation: | N E W |
Vertical Drop: | 1527m / 5010ft |
Skiable Vertical: | |
Night Skiing: | Yes (at Sedrun) |
Glacier: | Yes |
Downhill Runs: | 120km / 31 runs |
Beginner slopes: | 20% |
Intermediate: | 45% |
Advanced slopes: | 35% |
Lift Pass Price: | 60 CHF (adult single day pass) |
Nearby resorts: Grindelwald, Engelberg |
Cable cars on opposite sides of the village lead to the two ski areas above Andermatt; Nätschen to the north-east and Gemsstock to the south, between which there’s some seriously gnarly off-piste that makes up for the fact there aren’t reels of runs. Neither’s lifts are the most modern but that’s half their charm and, for now, keeps the crowds at bay. We love that you can actually take a 10-minute train to Nätschen which, with a little patience, also rolls on to Sedrun and a ton more beginner terrain and operates late one night a week for night skiing there. It won’t be long till this is all lift served and central Switzerland’s largest ski area.
At present, two dedicated progression lifts at Nätschen and an easy blue run from Gutsch to the village are the crux of the novice terrain here, and beautiful though these may be, they’ll get old. Beginners should take the railway through the Oberalp pass to Sedrun. As learner friendly an area as you’ll find, this has the smoothest of progressions from carpet slopes to gentle blues and even cruisy reds if you make it that far, all included on a SkiArena lift pass.
Intermediates are much more at home in the immediate resorts, with wide open red runs and pacey blues on both mountains, plus a long black for more experienced skiers and snowboarders. When you start repeating runs, there’s once again the train to take you to further fields. Zigzag down reds through Calmut, Val-Val and on to Sedrun for an epic adventure before catching the choo choo back. Don’t be put off Gemsstock by tales of its terrifyingness. The Sonnenpiste is a wide, open-air red from the summit all the way back to the Gurschen middle station with views that’ll send you off-piste if you’re not careful.
An expert mountain, no doubt about it, Gemsstock is a destination ski area for any serious snow lovers. The gorgeous black Russi run across the Gurschen Glacier to the middle station is worth the trip alone. But it’s the off-piste here that you’ll put in your memoirs… Dedicate at least one mid-morning to the challenging Guspis route towards the village of Hospental for lunch in the Gasthaus St Gotthard (taxi or bus it back).
There are very good conditions for snowboarding here thanks to the wide free riding areas and the biggest half pipe in Central Switzerland at Sedrun, and a school dedicated to boarding.
When lifts to Sedrun open, this will be a different (read: even more epic) story. For now, enjoy the tranquility.
Après takes a back seat in Andermatt, but the resort manages to muster a few lively pubs and with the swish new Chedi bar, things have taken a step in the direction of mixologists and champagne. Head to fun, wooden Spycher for pizzas in which you’ll taste the proximity of Italy, or seek out traditional Swiss dishes like egg-topped rösti served by waiters in lederhosen at the Gasthaus Zum Sternen. One of our favourite things about eating out here is that prices tend to be a lot less than you’d find elsewhere in Switzerland.
For anything resembling real fun after dinner, you’ll usually have to wait till the weekend. In the week, be super sophisticated at the Chedi’s wine and cigar library. You can make up for it on Saturday in underground Pinte, where it’s all about that bass and packed with bright young things.
Besides maxing and relaxing on food and drink, off-slope activities include the Chedi’s Asian-inspired spa, where there’s a panoramic pool that you’ll want to go all wrinkly in. Out of doors you can try ice climbing, skate on natural rinks, take a sleigh ride through town, get tobogganing on the 5km (closed to traffic) Oberalp Pass road, and just generally soak up all this Swissness.
This area is a sweet spot for gathering snow. At a convergence of three valleys close to the north side of the Alps, with the Gurschenfirn glacier immediately above, it has a reputation for being a powder haven. An average of 350 inches (890cm) of the stuff buries the ski area each year. Altitude helps, and on steep, shady Gemsstock most of the slopes sit between 2000 and 3000m. There are often healthy amounts snow here at times of the year when conditions in Switzerland’s main Valais region still leave a lot to be desired.
As investments flood the village, the people will eventually come, but for now Andermatt remains blissfully quiet and a great spot if you’re desperate for R&R during peak dates. If you’re here for the off-piste, the Gemsstock is on particularly fine form in the spring, when the snow is still coming down, days are longer and temperatures average a comfortable 6° C – this is when the King of the Mountain competition freestyle comes to town.
If you’ve been a good boy or girl this year, treat yourself to Christmas in Andermatt and perhaps a Bergschule Uri mountain guide. Even at the most wonderful time of year, this resort doesn’t see crowds… Yet.
Enjoy New Year’s dinners at altitude in the mountain lodges or down in the village hotels for New Year in Andermatt and expect a particularly lavish spread at the Chedi, topped off with a grand firework display in the village. For something a little different, see if nearby Hospental is still turning its main street into a bar-lined toboggan run for the occasion.
Ski Half Term in Andermatt before the crowds get wind of it for adventures off-piste, on the steam train and recharging the batteries in the mountain air.
With north-facing slopes and a glacier to keep snow tip-top, Easter in Andermatt is definitely a good idea. You’re likely to still find deeply satisfying powder skiing and special egg hunts in town.
Families have got a good thing going at Andermatt, with all the hallmarks of a Swiss village but lots of un-Swiss prices, and a remote feel despite being just 90 minutes’ drive from Zurich.
Between Nätschen and Sedrun, there’s plenty less formidable terrain to get your skis into and kids love riding the railway to the mountain in the mornings. Youngsters aged 4 and over can take group or private classes with the Swiss Snowsports School Andermatt to make some real progress through the week, and 3 to 4’s can join a Play-and Learn class held at the Children’s Park area in Nätschen.
For some non-skiing fun, try out the resort’s 3 different toboggan runs, go for a swim at the Chedi, skate on the natural rink in the village, then take to Oberalp for an entire frozen lake to swan around on.
If you’ve all bonded over a love of off-piste and Swiss villages, a group ski trip to Andermatt is a no-brainer. Splitting the cost of a private guide between 8, as you can with the Andermatt Guides, will help you discover the very best bits of Gemsstock for less. And while the proficient go couloir hunting, less seasoned skiers can venture up the railway to Nätschen and Sedrun and back with stories.
Off the mountains, make lasting memories on snowshoe and fondue treks, fat biking full moon rides, ice climbing and tobogganing. Just be sure to save enough energy for the weekend, and celebrate an awesome week with live tunes at Apothek at the Riverhouse or a blowout at the Chedi.
Accommodation | Number of nights | Price (per person) from |
---|