There’s nothing like hanging up the skis for a spot of après, and where better than the land in which the phrase originated? Home to legends like Folie Douce, this country certainly knows how to put on a party – and after a day skiing some of the best terrain on the planet, you’ve a good excuse to let your hair down.
From stomping ski-boots sur la table to sipping vin chaud by crackling firesides, the French have mastered everyone’s favourite forms of post-ski entertainment… Then thrown in some other options for good measure. Head to one of the incredible venues mentioned below and raise a glass to our favourite ski nation.
However delightfully civilised an open air violinist, saxophonist and singer may sound, you won’t know what ‘sweet madness’ has hit you at Val’s original Folie Douce. Rumour has it the owners set out to create a slice of Ibiza in the Alps, and they’ve done a decent job of it… French après ski hasn’t been the same since. Kely Starlight et al do a stellar job of entertaining, with crowds spilling out into the street and champers raining from the VIP booths. But don’t get too trollied – legends like Dicks Tea Bar and the Moris Pub are well worth being able to ski back for.
Brits love this resort and the après ski here’s definitely one of the reasons why. The big dog for après (and one of the best après ski bars in the world) is the Ronnie (what friends call Le Rond Point). Grab a pitcher of beer or a round of their legendary toffee vodkas and the rest’ll be history. O’Suillivans is an intriguing mix of Irish pub and gritty underground club, which needs to be experienced at least once, preferably when the decks are manned by a famous DJ. Jack’s bar gets filled to the rafters for sporting evenings like the Six Nations and also hosts some cracking comedy evenings and live music nights. Wherever you end up, scour menus for Mutzig old lager for a taste of a fine local brew.
Brilliantly sunny mountains and cheap pints are a recipe for some seriously good times here. For a relaxed evening with a spot of experimental drinking, head to Lounge 21 and wash down meats like kangaroo and ostrich with a tray of shooters. Equally edgy, Freeride in town is a ‘stock exchange’ bar where prices slide up and down every 100 seconds, depending on popularity… They’ve even made trips to the loo fun, via a slide – what’s not to love? Underground bar and L’Igloo are two more terrific watering holes and, of course, there’s always the area’s new Folie for some good old-fashioned mountainside madness.
This year-round mountain town sure knows how to throw a party. Soak up the day’s last rays in the bars at the bottom of each ski area (we like Les Vieilles Luges in Les Houches) before moving onto the main hub in town. Unmissable Chambre Neuf will soon see you putting those ski boots to good work on its tables and the craic’s always mighty at Munster Bar. As darkness falls, head to L’Amnesia, Chamonix’s largest club, where they’ll be pumping out drinks and tunes till the wee hours.
After a bluebird day, everyone heads to Loop in Le Lac, where you’ll find the seasonaires bopping along to live music on the terrace. Those who still have the legs for it might then head to Queue du Cochon (formerly Scotty’s) in Lavachet for a boundary-breaking cocktail menu, and on to Val Claret where the night owls flock for partying till dawn. Blue Girl and Melting Pot are always jumping, and Saloon's soon filled to the rafters with students in onesies… (it’s the only part of town which allows Varsity trips). As if these weren’t enough, you’re also a couple of ski lifts away from Val d’Isere and the original Folie Douce.
When Rock the Piste comes to town in March, this famous festival certainly does what it says on the tin (previous acts include The Klaxons and Babyshambles). That’s not to say the rest of the season’s stilled to a whisper - enjoy a sophisticated vin chaud at uber posh L’Amara as the sun sets or turn up the tempo at Le Shooters with its never-ending choice of different shots. We also love the Mexican themed Wild Horse Saloon, a cracking hangout for drinks, burgers and nachos.
Let it be known that Courchevel’s après ski isn’t ALL magnums of bubbly and Michelin stars... It’s true, if you have a healthy budget, 1850 has its fair share of glittering institutions like Les Caves but this place also has decent spots doing happy hour deals and drinks that’ll get you change from a tenner. On the slopes, Le Panoramic does what it says on the tin and we like the tropical snowy vibes at Waikiki (sister to Adventure Bar Clapham) at the top of the Bellecote piste. If you like your après ski served at the foot of the slopes, Le Tremplin’s a true crowd-pleaser. 1650’s a livelier and more affordable area on the whole – head to Fire & Ice for pizza and drinks on a huge terrace, Instagrammable Le Zinc for DJ’s or La Boulotte and Funky Fox for live music events. Don’t forget Le Bubble either - a long-time seasonaire favourite.
Partiers of all ages and inclinations flock to L2A where the Avenue de la Muzelle (the main strip) is brimming with pubs and bars. Around ever since the first lifts started churning, a stint at Pub Windsor is a no-brainer (but choosing a tipple from over 100 beers or cocktails is a bit more of a challenge). Adventurous drinkers, meanwhile, will love the shots list at Smokey Joes. Whether or not Rum’s your poison, a trip to the Rhumerie and its 60 different flavours is another must (the chilli variety isn’t for the faint-hearted…) and bringing up the rear, Avalanche blasts out a mix of dance and house music into the early hours. To get the party started suitably early, Panobar under the Jandri Express lift is a smashing mountain pit stop, with a DJ from 3 to 5.
As if being in the humungous Portes du Soleil wasn’t enough, Morzine also has a brilliant buzz about it when the lifts close. These days, Taille de Mas du Pléney is better known by the rather instructive name of “Bar Street” for its stretch of watering holes – the Tremplin at the telecabine end draws in the crowds with its DJ sessions and grilled grub. Serving “giraffes” of beer, The Tibetan café’s another favourite, where drinking pure and simple takes prominence over grooving. This is closely followed, in our eyes, by Bar Robinson (or Robbos) - much-loved for its unassuming, French atmosphere and strong Mutzig on tap. If you’re nursing a bit of a hangover or you’d simply rather wind down, curl up in the Coup Du Coeur’s tub chairs and rest up with a nourishing draft beer or cocktail...
In a resort of record-breakers, The Frog and Roast beef, Europe’s highest pub, is always jam-packed (and they do a cracking English breakfast for those feeling fragile in the mornings). Folie Douce up at the Plein Sud also shouldn’t be missed, but make sure to spare a couple of afternoons for Bar 360 at the Moraine base station, where the atmosphere’s just as wild and the booze a lick or two cheaper. In the central square, the Danish Saloon Bar sees après ski flow seamlessly into a night out, with doors open for drinking and dancing until after 1. If your dial’s set to party, carry on with the record-breaking theme in Malaysia, the biggest dance floor in the Alps (700m2) which pumps tunes till 5.
You'll struggle to find a nation that has more après ski offerings than France, which easily has some of the greatest mountainside bars, pubs and nightclubs on the planet.
A couple of them made it into our Ten Best Après ski resorts worldwide, where you'll find the ultimate bucket list for world-beating après ski - from Europe to North America.
French après comes in many forms, including vin chaud on a sun terrace, cocktails and champagne in a cosy bar, dancing to DJ sets / live music in mountain bars and nightclubs, tucking into tartiflette in a local restaurant, a spa session, ice skating, snowmobile safari or board games back in your chalet.
There’s no fixed time for après to begin in French ski resorts but activities will usually start towards the end of the ski day, around 4pm. If it’s an extra cold day, many could be tempted to start a little earlier.
Some of the best French resorts for après-ski are Val d’Isère, Courchevel, Meribel and Alpe d'Huez, home to some cracking après venues including mountain bars, pubs and nightclubs.
Drinks include vin chaud (mulled wine), champagne, beer, cocktails, chocolat chaud (hot chocolate – maybe with a shot of chartreuse for an extra kick). Eats could be sweet or savoury crêpes, fondue, raclette, croque monsieur, tartiflette or just a bowl of frites (chips). Most places will also serve lots of other dishes, like pasta or curry.
The original La Folie Douce in Val d’Isère is a blast – an open air, mountainside club with live music, DJ’s and crazy cabaret entertainment coordinated by the legendary Kely Starlight. Champagne showers, dancing on tables and whacky outfits are the norm here!
Chambre Neuf in Chamonix, Dick’s Tea Bar in Val d’Isère, Loop Bar in Tignes and Le Bubble Bar in Courchevel are well-renowned spots. It’s safe to say there’s no shortage of live music in the French Alps.
The flagship Folie Douce Hotel in Chamonix is quite the après treat. We also like Club Med’s ski hotels across several resorts - like Club Med Val Thorens and Club Med Alpe d'Huez - which come with all-inclusive drinks and live music on selected days.
Our favourites include Le 1947 in Courchevel for gourmet, Le Rustique in Les Deux Alpes for families and Le Chalet des Verdons Sud in La Plagne for scenery.
French ski resorts don’t have any fixed rules against minors being in bars (if accompanied by an adult). Some places might have certain time restrictions. If it isn’t clear when you arrive, it’s probably best to check so you’re not booted out mid-pint.
18 - both for buying alcohol in shops and being served alcohol in bars/restaurants. If you’re under 25 it’s a good idea to carry your photo ID just in case.
(this information was accurate when written)
A pint of lager will cost between €5 and €10 in most places, which is about £4-7. Naturally, the fancier the place the more you’ll pay.
(this information was accurate when written)
When a venue is offering special deals or discounts on drinks (and sometimes food) at a certain time. It could be 2-for-1 cocktails, half-price pints or €2 pizza slices… Despite the name it often lasts longer than an hour. Keep your eyes peeled for happy hour signs and adverts.
Most venues allow stag/bachelor and hen/bachelorette parties. From time to time you may come across somewhere that isn’t keen on letting in big groups, so it’s worth checking in advance to be sure.
It depends on the rules of the chalet - some are set up for soirees with sound systems (one even comes with a DJ set and light machines). Book the entire chalet for sole occupancy if you plan some festivities, so you don’t have to worry about other guests.
Most French resorts offer half-day lift passes. We can double check this for you if you have a particular resort in mind.
Lots of places will take cards but it’s always a good idea to carry a bit of cash in case of technical blips. Most resorts will have an ATM to withdraw cash if you run out. If you do prefer spending on card, remember your bank might charge foreign transaction and currency exchange fees.
Resort | Resort features | Best après ski bars |
---|---|---|
Val d'Isere | Extensive, snow sure skiing in the Espace Killy, attractive French resort, luxury hotels & chalets | Folie Douce, Dicks Tea Bar, Moris Pub |
Meribel | Centre of 3 Valleys Ski Area, amazing chalets, great family offerings | Le Rond Point (aka the Ronnie), O’Sullivans, Jack’s Bar |
Alpe d'Huez | Sunny ski area, great for beginners | Folie Douce, Lounge 21, Free Ride, Underground, L’Igloo |
Chamonix | Historic mountain town, short airport transfers | Les Vielles Luges, Chambre Neuf, Munster Bar, L’Amnesia |
Tignes | High altitude skiing in Espace Killy, ski in/out accommodation | La Queue du Cochon (was Scotty’s), Blue Girl, Melting Pot, Saloon, Folie Douce Val d’Isere |
Avoriaz | Highest resort in Portes du Solei, ski in/out | L’Amara, Le Shooters, Wild Horse Saloon |
Courchevel | Attractive luxury ski resort, huge 3 Valleys ski area | Les Caves, Waikiki, Le Tremplin, Le Zinc, Fire & Ice, Le Bubble |
Les 2 Alpes | Snow sure glacier skiing, long-established ski town | Pub Windsor, Smokey Joes, Rhumerie, Avalanche, Panobar |
Morzine | Vast Portes du Soleil skiing, short airport transfers | Tremplin, Tibetan Café, Bar Robinson |
Val Thorens | Europe’s highest ski resort, 3 Valleys ski area | Frog & Roast Beef, Folie Douce, Bar 360, Danish Saloon Bar, Malaysia |