Austria has an incredibly rich climbing history, with mountaineering legends like Hermann Buhl, Peter Habeler and Reinhold Messner all having their roots here. In keeping with this tradition, there’s a whole host of seriously technical climbs to get to grips with – although you don’t have to have nerves (and fingertips) of steel to enjoy many of the mountains, gorges and cliff faces.
Tuition is on offer in most resorts to both first-timers and those looking to nail advanced skills in campusing and master dynos. You’ll also find that many resorts are linked to the Alps’ massive network of via ferrata trails. See below for ten of the best resorts in the country if you want a week scaling the spectacular Austrian Alps.
Alpbach’s near the Berghaus Sonnwendjoch climbing area, found in the dramatic Rofan mountain range. You can reach it by lift or on foot via a lovely 2 hour hike, and once you get there you’re treated to 80 great climbing routes. These range in difficulty but all have one thing in common – spectacular views over the forests and cliffs of the Rofan mountains.
The dramatic Wilder Kaiser mountain chain has long been a magnet to climbers. Experts should definitely check out the Schleier waterfall climb over in Going (15 mins drive) and the ‘Via Classica’ on the Fleischbank-Nordgratabbruch (where you’ll climb nearly 1200m in total!). For less experienced climbers there are also via ferrata and a number of easy ascents.
The climbing in Ischgl and the surrounding Silvretta arena is mainly on via ferrata, and it’s absolutely spectacular. Our favourite route is the Flimspitz, which takes you up to a lofty 3000 metres and rewards you with an unbelievable view into the Swiss and Italian Alps. About a quarter of an hour’s drive away, Galtür has an indoor bouldering wall and a practice climbing wall.
You’ll find around 100 climbing routes on the Kitzsteinhorn, split over two distinct areas. The Rettenwand area has 70 traditional routes, and the Gletscherseeplatten is a slab climbing area of polished limestone with around 30 routes. The Club Kitzsteinhorn indoor climbing centre is at hand to help you polish up your technique or avoid climbing withdrawal in rainy weather. You can enjoy the same climbing areas if you base yourself in neighbouring Zell am See, too.
Pertisau is a huge hit with climbers the world over. There are two mountain ranges in the vicinity – the Karwendels and the Rofans – so you really are spoilt for choice. You’ll find 250-odd sport climbing routes, as well as eight via ferrata and a myriad of classic routes. Climbing legend Hermann Buhl cut his teeth here as a youngster, which says something about the quality of what’s on offer.
There are three brilliant alpine climbing areas in Mayrhofen. Two can be found on the famous Mount Penken and these have around 45 routes in total – with plenty of harder climbs for intermediates and experts. The third is a rock face in a beautiful forest clearing and some of the routes here are hard enough to give pros a challenge... There are also 5 via ferrata routes and lots of popular bouldering spots.
There’s almost no end of climbing possibilities in Obergurgl, with over 600 marked routes in the Ötztal Valley area. On top of this there are 6 great via ferrata routes ranging in difficulty from easy to extreme. Our favourite is the Reinhard Schiestl, named after the local climbing legend of the same name, where you climb over 200 vertical metres in total.
St. Anton is home to the amazing Schnann gorge, with its rushing rivers, waterfalls and aquamarine plunge pools. This provides the backdrop for over 40 sport climbing routes that vary over 6 levels of difficulty, from beginner to pro. There are also nearly 60 routes around the high altitude Darmstaedter Mountain Lodge, as well as an incredible 3km long via ferrata that takes you over 2500 metres high!
If you’re looking for a great resort for via ferrata routes, look no further than lakeside St. Wolfgang. There are 11 well-known routes in the surrounding Salzkammergut area, including the seriously hardcore Hallstatt-Seewand. Only those with a head for heights need apply, as you’ll be climbing over 800 vertical metres in total! You’re rewarded with panoramic views over the lakes and a traditional mountain restaurant where you can refuel with delicious sweet Kaiserschmarrn.
As well as lots of via ferrate, Stubai Valley has a number of climbing gardens – those at the start of their climbing career can scale the Sulzenau, where the routes get progressively longer as you go west. At the other end of the spectrum is the Sport climbing garden Eldorado and the steep routes next to the Fernau via ferrata. If scenery is a priority, head to the garden near the Regensburger hut for sights of the Habicht and Serles Mountains.