Downtown Banff is made up of traditional timber and stone buildings and arranged in a simple grid pattern, centred around the main road – Banff Avenue - that’s been purposely positioned to open up a fabulous view of Cascade Mountain.
Unlike your average ski resort, winter is low season here (good news if you’re staying in town, which usually means better deals). Accommodation is mostly classic lodges and hotels, the cream of the crop being the Fairmont Springs Hotel. This ‘castle in the Rockies’ has had the likes of Marilyn Monroe and the Queen amongst its guests and was built by some of the area’s first tourists - flush Victorians who spotted the potential of the local hot springs. Over time, the whole town has been carefully crafted as somewhere that visitors can have an authentically Canadian experience in some of North America’s most spectacular surroundings.
…and they jolly well are spectacular: Banff National Park is the oldest National Park in Canada and a UNESCO World Heritage site – where strict building restrictions have kept the town itself small and intimate.
Over the park’s 6641 square km, you’re not only treated to some awesome views of the Rockies but also three excellent ski resorts: Nicknamed ‘The Big 3’, all have their fair share of accommodation and are easy to reach by public transport, though lots of visitors choose to rent their own wheels.
Five minutes from the town is the local hill, Mt Norquay: small and family-friendly with some lovely, sheltered skiing. About 15 minutes away is Sunshine Village, with famously good snow. Last but quite the opposite of least is: Lake Louise, 40 minutes away and famed for its whopping ski area (the 2nd biggest single ski area in Canada) and drop-dead-gorgeous scenery.
Location: Alberta, Canada
Established: 1948
Open: Nov - May
Downhill: 7748 acres / 357 runs
View our detailed Banff snow forecast or snow report and see all live webcams, piste maps, road and travel maps and lift pass prices. For a picture of historic snow conditions see the snow depths month by month with our Banff snow history.
Nearest Airport & Transfer Time: | |
Calgary | 144 km, 1hr 30 |
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Top Altitude: | |
Bottom Altitude: | |
Resort Altitude: | 1,630 – 2,730m |
Longest run: | 8 km |
Slope Orientation: | N S E W |
Vertical Drop: | 1070m (Sunshine Village) |
Skiable Vertical: | |
Night Skiing: | Yes (Mt Norquay) |
Glacier: | Yes (Lake Louise) |
Downhill Runs: | 7748 acres / 357 runs |
Beginner slopes: | 20% |
Intermediate: | 36% |
Advanced slopes: | 44% |
Lift Pass Price: | $626 (Adult 6 day) |
Nearby resorts: Lake Louise |
Mt Norquay’s runs are sheltered by trees - head up on the Cascade chair for wide and easy-going greens like Temptation and Speculation. Intermediates can take the Mystic Express to several blues like Bruno’s gully, where you have the opportunity to dabble in a bit of powder. The North American Chair serves some exhilarating black diamonds (don’t miss the bumps on the Memorial Bowl) and a double diamond - Lone Pine. If you’ve been skiing elsewhere in the day, return to Norquay in time for the night skiing, which takes place most evenings – if only to experience the views over a lit-up Banff.
Sunshine Village is the people pleaser of ski areas. Beginners will love the twisty greens from the Angel Express, while intermediates and above can ski two provinces (Alberta and British Columbia) in one trail on Lookout Mountain. The Goats Eye Express leads to some super double diamonds and gladed trails, while ungroomed legends like Delirium Dive and Wild West require you to have avalanche safety equipment. If you’re crossing the pond for some park time, the Rogers Terrain Park (accessible via the Continental Divide Chairlift) has some of the best features around.
Lake Louise’s real credit for beginners is that there’s a green from every lift, so you can get a taste for the whole mountain (favourites include Wiwaxy from the Glacier Express chair and Eagle Meadows from the Grizzly Express). Intermediates who like wide-open cruisers should head to the top station for the Skyline trail or, for something a little more challenging, the Boomerang on the back bowl. Experts can test their mettle on the black diamond trails of Mount Whitethorn’s Diamond Mine. For powder, head to the Top of the World Chairlift and ski between the pistes or check out the area around the ladies’ downhill. If you’re skiing the Paradise Bowl, watch your step! It’s locally known as ‘Comedy Bowl’, and the natives are always on the lookout for entertaining tumbles from the chairlift above…
As for cross country skiing, Rockies + XC = the most incredible experience, there’s no better way to get up close and personal with the Banff National Park - the trails are positioned to have the best views of the UNESCO-listed landscape, and the span of difficulties leaves nobody out of the loop.
The whole area is known for its laid-back après and friendly locals. In Norquay, the Cascade Lodge has a fabulous sun terrace - you could head inside to the Kika's Café for a warming cuppa but make sure you stay out to watch the sunset at least once.
After a day in Sunshine village, grab a quick eat at the Burger Shack or go fine dining at The Eagle's Nest (the fantastic Alberta beef is their speciality).
At the base of Lake Louise, Banded Peak Base Camp often has live music and does great BBQ food. Another good 'un is Powder Keg Lounge which has a comfy pub feel.
Back in town, The Bison Restaurant has a special place in our hearts for its incredible steaks, among other treats, and it also has a great terrace. Instead of settling for a Subway, go next door for another of our favourites, Maple Leaf Grille, where they have over 600 different wines on the menu.
Later on, take your dancing shoes to Dancing Sasquatch and ask the barman for a Time Machine: a unique drink creation that will leave you cutting some moves and feeling delicate on tomorrow's gondola. Alternatively, head to The Devil's Gap Bar, which is smaller and more intimate with reasonably priced drinks.
This is a place that's busiest in the summer, so you can expect lots to do away from the snow. Visit the natural hot springs or explore the town - it's a simple, easy to navigate grid where the blocks are lined with souvenir shops and familiar stores like Helly Hanson, Patagonia and The Body Shop.
If the white landscape is just too tempting, explore the walks through Bow Valley for a terrific day out (best accompanied by a camera and pockets filled with goodies from Banff Sweet Shoppe). Whether you're here with children or not, head over to Mt Norquay for the Tube Park – you might be almost tempted to abandon your skis altogether and go everywhere by tube. Almost… There's usually an ice rink on the school playing field in town but don't head home without skating on one of the frozen lakes – our favourite is Lake Louise. Lake Minnewanka, Lake Johnson and the Vermilion Lakes usually have skating too.
Banff is set on the continental divide, which means you can usually expect soft powder until the last days of the season (often towards the end of April). Sunshine Village’s name could fool you into thinking that conditions are mild, but they’re actually anything but slushy- it’s said to have the longest ski season in North America. While this is fantastic, it also means that conditions are a lot colder than in Europe, sometimes reaching -30 degrees, so good quality layers and gloves are necessary. If you’re looking for something a little special, plan to be in Banff in January – if past years are anything to go by, you’ll catch the fortnight-long SnowDays Festival, which usually includes an ice playground, the incredible International Ice Carving Competition in Lake Louise, and skate parties on the Banff Ave. rink.
Christmas in Banff is alight with decorations and Canadian cheer - take a peek at the interior of Fairmount Springs Hotel for the ultimate festive atmosphere. It’s a local tradition to ski on Christmas Day, so look out for Santa on the slopes! Banff Christmas ski holidays ‣
New Year in Banff traditionally features an awesome fireworks display. Rumour has it the best place to gather is on the corner of Banff Avenue and Caribou Street… mix with the locals and then head to some of the livelier bars in town. Banff New Year ski holidays ‣
Let the masses head to France, get the homework done on the plane and spend Half term in Banff. The area is perfect for kids who can try their hand at dog sledding, tobogganing, ice skating, and ski some lovely confidence-boosting groomers. Banff Half Term ski holidays ‣
Easter in Banff is known to be celebrated in style. Some eateries will put on a special Sunday brunch before you join one of the traditional Easter Egg Hunts. Banff Easter ski holidays ‣
Banff’s small town and world-away-from-home feel make it great for families… and with 3 ski areas, whether you’re skiing for the first time or have been hitting the slopes for years, there’ll be slopes to suit here.
Families with younger or less experienced skiers can start off on the closest slopes in Mt Norquay, which is great for easy-going, tree-lined skiing. Sunshine Village’s snow park should do the trick when it comes to keeping teens happy, and the slopes here are varied enough for all kinds of skiers to have a whale of a time. While it requires the longest commute, we love that Lake Louise has a run of each level from every lift – so you get to spend quality time together and keep track of the brood rather than splitting up all over the place. SNO man’s top tip for families is to remember that it gets pretty nippy in this neck of the woods (more so than the Alps) so pack lots of layers and schedule in hot chocolate stops to keep everybody warm.
If you’re with children who aren’t old enough to ski yet, there are specialist daycare centres at each ski area that can cater to children aged 18 days to 6 years and offer programs that include indoor and outdoor play. They can also introduce the slopes for slightly older children to ease them into their skiing journey.
There are oodles of activities for young children, teens and parents - snow tubing, ice skating, and dog sledding, to name a few. If you’re not planning to ski or just fancy some time out, head to the hot springs for a relaxing break or tread the walking paths in Bow Valley. Don’t miss out on all the shops, restaurants, and attractions in the town itself – a promised trip to The Fudgery could see everyone on their best behaviour for the week. There are some lovely family restaurants like Athena Pizza and Old Spaghetti Factory on Banff Ave.
You’re unlikely to find any member of the party at a loose end during a holiday in Banff.
The main town has three ski different ski areas to explore together or in smaller groups – all are definitely worth a ski at least once. The closest to the town is Mt Norquay, the ‘local’ hill, which has some fantastic, sheltered skiing if you want to gently introduce any newbies to the slopes. Sunshine Village has a good mix of runs and a great snow park, as does Lake Louise. Lake Louise’s real credit for a mixed ability group is that it has a slope of each difficulty from every lift - so everyone can stay in their comfort zone without having to disperse all over the area. If you do split up around the three resorts, meet for some night skiing at Mt Norquay to catch up on the day’s thrills and spills and enjoy the view over Banff Town at night.
What we love about holidays here is that they’re not exclusively for mad-keen skiers; non-skiers will have a cracking time here too. You’ll find some great opportunities for a laugh at the Mt Norquay Tube Park or for something a little more relaxed, have a soak in the hot springs. There are more than enough shops, galleries and cafes to enjoy a whole day in town, from The North Face to The Fudgery (which we challenge you not to return to at least once).
Canada doesn’t have the same après ski we’re used to in the Alps, but there are some terrific restaurants, bars and nightclubs here. The crowd at St James’ Gate Irish Pub is always up for a good time, and we love a beer on the rooftop patio at The Rose and Crown, Banff’s oldest pub.
Accommodation | Number of nights | Price (per person) from |
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Fairmont Banff Springs | 6 | £ 1343 |
The Fox Hotel & Suites | 6 | £ 1016 |
Moose Hotel & Suites | 7 | £ 1136 |
Brewsters Mountain Lodge | 6 | £ 1010 |
Caribou Lodge | 7 | £ 1019 |
Banff Aspen Lodge | 7 | £ 1074 |
Banff Inn Hotel | 7 | £ 941 |
Banff Ptarmigan Inn | 7 | £ 1006 |